Hanging in the ol Town

Wanderings around London are one of my favorite things. Ive just finished a quick walk throught the Silver Markets- about 40 shops, 50 meters below London near the Courts in Westminster. They are basically a walk-in safe with a fellow inside. Quite a find from a quick chat with a bloke in the Cornish pastry shop (tasty too- the pastry not the bloke). Just next door is the walk into the Lincoln place and church, with its own little Member's club hidden behind vast iron gates. The wandering takes me home on the 25 Bus.
Wilbur and Phil have been busy and there is a meal on the table. Good thing I'm in thier good books. A good chat and a glass of plonk put us all in the mood for a quite night in - so phil goes climbingand to the pub. what do ya figure when they are only younguns- Im so envious of the energy.
I wake to another beautiful day in London with the sun up and the temperature down. I will walk today for Oxford Street and the Covent Gardenand catch the boat from the Canary wharf. Have to leave the Airport by 4.00pm so back home it is, to pack and travel. I slide my boots on and count the bags I carry. It's here I know I'm back on the road. See ya in Queensland.

London Town

Hit the ol' town after a fun but totally uneventful trip via the Chunnel (yawn) and the spreading fields of lovely england. Met Simon and Nick Warner of the Train - very rare to bump into someone you know, but made for a good trip. The tube is the same and the party to welcome me magnificent (ok so it was for the final of the World Cup). Wibur in his usual quite way,was expounding the glory of Wheat Beer. Phil, his NZ flat mate, and the garden, were there to be enjoyed on a truly lovely English night. Spicy sausage and the pleasure of a few cold one - and the south africans winning!Although hard to take, it is better than the english. The french, irish,scots,welsh and all the world thinks so anyway. Great show from the Argentines. Have done the usual this AM as teh day is wonderful - brekky of bacon and eggs - Wilbur knows what a fellow needs after a few weeks in the french provences!The walk along the River from tower Bridge to St Pauls is still one of the best ever. Tate has a fine couple of showings and Soho is looking good. dinner with Phil and Wilbur make me think of some other times with this boy. We reminiseed about he-who-shall-never-be-named and caught up on the old London friends. monday is a walk up Oxford Street with a small pig-out at Harrods-yum. These things are what makes me love this place. Can New York get as exciting for me as well - possibly. The rest of the trip is a bit of a let down so will see ya in Brisso if there are no other hitches. LOL

Limoges and the Strike

The strike hqs tqken us into limoges and what a suprise; the Town had no accommodation left so I ended up at the airport; If ever you go- just dont go out to the Airport for accomodtion!thankfully the 20 euro cab fare each way was offset by the great find at the Hotel de La Prais; what gramophone can you discover that isnt scattererd around this hotel- all sizes and shapes with a collection of memorabilia to make "The Collectors" weep. I have dined on boudin sasauge, scoffed the best prune tart that you can find, and had a lovely chat over a glass of apple juice. just the thing to get that last bit of blood sausage down the hatch! Oradour sur G is a monument to a Waffen SS whim to demonstrate german dominance over Vichy france- they slaughtered 650 odd men women and children and then tried to hide the fact. The remains of the Martyred town are worth a visit and the bus trip is delightful -through rolling country side.
A magnificient day market allowed me to finsih the evening and my stay in france in tru french fashion with the french and argentine game closing I to am off to my bed. off to london tomorrow. Strike is over so hope for a fun trip.

Road Trip 2

San Sebastion is all its reported to be. Bucky was correct and after viewing the accommodation Phil used to start the running of the Bulls nearly 30 yaers ago, the hostal is just right; The expense is not missing as we start the evening stroll with a thousnad others along the sea front boulivards; the old city, Saint sebastian overlooking the bay, the yapping dogs of the SDF recipients(dole bludger in Australia), and the spirited 2 story merrygo round cycling in the setting haze are a striking memory for me. the Beer in the Squaregives us all the evening break we need. Ill have to research the numbering of the rooms around the square - Ive seen it before but forgot the meaning. Argentina and South Africa take the field in the Argentinienne restaurant next door to the burger joint for dinner; these arent Macca's, they have taste.
I wake still crying in sympathy for the Argentines and find i will have difficulty supporting any of the teams in the final. The days is magnificient. the beach beccons and we submit till 3.00pm. Phil is off agian over mountains and up backroads, kylie is still in 'Chronicles', the kids want to walk so we stop on the highest point between spain and france just b4 St jean de Luz; Here the communications tower security guard eyes us suspiciously as the ' kids jump the fence to the view to take the breath away. it extends so far I can see the Eiffel Tower. well almost. The Carravelle(decore in modern sailing ship) in cibourn fishing village is empty so we take the Lonely planet sugession, pack the kids to a great beack for the sunset. again the beer ane the setting sun create a paternalo instinct in me- I knock it down with the beer and watch a young english boy practice Johnny kicks in the sand.
Teh next days is a long drive so we have started for bed early 11.00 pm. thats france!!
Breakfast, then the drive northback to Le Duc via Bordeaux- its long hot and the Giggle Game gets played; something I invented to stop gownups getting too serious! Le Duc is welcome and a greqt steakBBQ awits compliemts of Simone. I am indebted again.
There is consensus that we can see the Lacaux caves B4 setting me on my way and after confusion caused by the flash French train strike, Im on my way to Limoges; capital of Limousin, and father to the Boudin Blood sausage- yum yum. Off now to get those cute trains again and see how I can get around the strikes- should be some fun. Bloody good road trip Team Warner - thanks.

The Road Trip

The van is not full. We have a small pack for the parents and kids and a kit for the extra bloke bigger than thiers for 6. I thought I have perfected the art of travelling light, but these guys have taken the cake. the car has the requisite box of toys and a good supplyof water. the "Bidi" s (dummy) for clancy are stuffed on the dashboards. All the imaginations are ready to go at 10.30 and we are off.
the plan is to drive down to pamplona and via toulouse then head for Bairitz and Bordeaux. So much for plans. So far we have headed south but the plans seem to have changed as we go. Were now heading for the fortified town of St Jean -Pied-de Port , an old town used as a launching pad for pilgrims to Spain-Oh, and spain looks nice. Oh, and so do those hills - lets go left. Warner has a preoccupation, honed from years of travelling, to find small but intimate overnight lodgings. L'Hotel des Sources de la Nive is no different. 4 km on from Esterencuby( about 8 km from St Jen) is a small 25 room hotel stradeling the local stream. If the flat basque hats on the 8 fellows and thier dogs are an indication, we are in the best launcing pad for walkers and shooters in the country. the reverberating gunshots start the eveings walk along the river. The kids are soon depressed by the vines and briers and want the car. the drive to the border makes the Amalfi Coast look sedate and the spectacular views in the pyrenees are breathtaking. were lucky apparently for the good weather. The white concrete road in the high valley indicated we,ve crossed to spain. Kyle is happy. the kids have spotted hundreds of goats with bells and willi has fallen into a frozen mountain stream checkng for snow. What a treat it all is.
The hotels fiest for dinner is hearty vege soup, trout,sausauge and melon cheese, coffee and local vin rouge-12 €. The rugby is depressing (bloody Wilkinson) and the local Basque hunters chug the pear liquer for comfort. The crossant ordeal for breakfast is the only bad thing here. Worth a stay.
Retracing the footsteps over the mountain passes we head for Spain- why not, the day is wonderful. Ochagavia, Garralda, Mezkiritz and Pamplona beckon. Do the mountain crossing if ever your here. Watch the motor bikes, the nutters doing cycling, and dear seem to be as numerous as the kangaroo on the roads. Not as many dead as we drive a lot slower here.
Pamplona is really a good spot for an accident so Phil has one-ask me later. Pamlona is also good for a Tapas lunch and yes, there is the spot where daddy got shot by the gaurdia. the waiter is used to english but finds the Australian children gutsing down lots of octupu s and peppers a real thrill. now lets find a map to see where we are and need to go. Love the planning! this is real by the seat of the pants travell and the kids dont care. Kyle reads the "chronicles" still. See ya in San Sebastian.

Limousin, The Dordogne and Quercy.

Sampling the pleasures of this region is best done with a really good group of colourful people and a truckload of kids. Well, I found just the group. I have been to ancient prehistoric parks and walked along the lanes and sideroads of this fascinatin area of real france (atleast "the lonely planet" says so!) Each morning has been wonderful. As I rise at 8.30, the mist/fog lifts about 10.30 or 11am and the walk through the country lanes, past the picturesque farmhouses smacks of the cliche. Im happy! There is a 1.5 km walk to town that is finished with a cafe au lait and a hot croissant in the local Pub! Australia should be so good. Could change the way we look at pubs!
Touring around with the Brothers Warner and clan has been great- the chatueaux and the towns are all spectacular and arresting (and we often arrest with a ice cold Amstill beer as well). Chateau Des Milandes (with the memorial to josephine baker), Martel (our local internet site that doesnt work),Buealieu-sur -Dordogne, Collenges-la-rouge,Turenne, CastelnauSarlat, la rogue gagaec, Cahors, Rocamadour and every other fun spot pales into insignificance when one has a fishing rod and a good bag of worms.

We are on the banks of the dordonge behind the rugby ground at Vayrac. the pleasures are simple - grass to the river edge, river with water in it and flowing, no ants in the grass to bite your butt. The river is totally unpopulated by anyone except the local elder out for a walk. You can see the fish(salmon and trout) that wont bite the hook. this spot is truly deep france with the limestone cliffs and the small stone and adobe cottages dotted on the green hillsides. the full day in the sun, quite a few pages turned and the beer nearly gone have a bunch of deranged kids (what adults!)busting for a BBQ. in typical australian fashion we have decended on the "Shopi" our local supermarket and bought steaks, Duck Magrets, tomatoes and green and white beans- with Apple flognardes for dessert of course. Le Duc rocks with the local rouge flowing as well. Does Phil Warner really have the old bullet wound from the spanish police, is there a train wreck adn a love affaire in Egypt we only sense in his history?
Each day here is a pleasure and the Warners have adapted complety. Simon and Nick, David and Maggie are off to the Rugby semis in Paris and to cheer loudly for the French (sorry to all those Poms reading this). The Tribe Philip are of to see the pyrenees and have kindly offered me a place in the back of the van. What a treat! Phil is a true world adventurer. Kylie and he have some amazing ability to travel everywhere with clancy 2 yrs and loving it, Mad willi 5 yrs, Hollie the red-haired beauty 9 yrs, and georgia the dignified 12 yrs, aroung the world and still talk to each other. it is quite a differnt expereince to have these guys as my travell companions. let the next adventure begin.
LOL
Kimb

Les Quatre Routes des Lot

I had thouhgt that the country side in France is sweeping vineyards and supporting stone infra structureand winding country roads. how wrong. the hilly train trip from Brive to Les Quatre Routes is fantastic. Similar to going up the mountain to costellucio in the italian tuscans,this is a tiny one carriage local train. the railway run unprotected from the rest of the scenery by any fence or screen so the train stops or slows often for the sheep and cows. the train is a very modern small tram- like unit designed to run one way and back. Warner is on the station with clancy -his 2 year old. the train pulls in, the passenger alights, the train swishes off(very quite diesel) and the next adventure begins. Le Duc is the picture of the french country sidevilla, herre are all the geraniums, differnet wild flowers,and green meadows that a summer in Quercy should have. The three 2 story stone cottages are discrete but bound together by a courtyard of stones and cobbles. the old barn attached to the left cottage awaits its conversion to another delight of this country.It is side filled with yellow stonecottages, oaks and country lanes over hung with blueberry vines and trees dropping acorns and golden red leaves. The cars sweep the leaves into the fountains that are the signature of the car ads on television for the SUV in Autumn. the lanes will provide a great fantasy for me. Mum Kylie,Holly Willy and Georgia are good to see again. I must say I have now seen the Warners in nearly 4 different holidays from the magic of Lord Howe to the beauty of Limosine and the Goronne. It is a pleasure. The little cottage I am to share has brother Simon and his son nick.They are both rushing rushing around the Marsailles area, seeing both Cote de Azurand the Aussie quarter final game. Phil, David, and I settle down for the Quarter finals. We rise after 4 hours in Martel's local sports bar in shock, and walk to the car. I dont think Ill ring Kitty hawk Annie just yet. Howard the English man who owns Le Duc, greats us at the door. He has been watering the garden and has a large smile on his face. we exchange a pleasantry and move on to the steak BBQ where we can talk of adventures unrelated to the football. World Cup - What World Cup!! The Departement of Lot beckons.

The Last Days in Bordeaux

The final party for our group is the Chateau Roquetaillade,situated just to the southeast of bordeaux in the vin Blanc district. it is a partially restored castle keep in the magnificient style of all these magnificient chateauxs. The difference here is that we are the only guests because of the school. we are taken on a walk that includes keeps , dining rooms bedrooms and alll the garrison quarters. it is to be opened to the public soon so is pretty original and new in its feel. quite a treat. The truly magnificient piece in the place is the unique ivory piano with gold keys! not a bad little piece and worth a place in any persons antiqure portfolio. the moat and the hidden drawbridge operated from the dining room compliment the secret stairs and the various other little touches that will create intrigue in the daily life of the 14 C Marquis and family.Teh kitchen is elaborate with operating fires for roasting the odd pig or elephant. the modern stove compliments the rest of the decore and is capable of a small sit down dinner for 400.
Being a crew of wine drinkers and young, the next stop creates a titter of anticipation- the Chateaux D'Yquem. this is a significant wine area especially in the white sugary sauternes. The town is 2 km up the raod so the region is very famous for these styles. The President, Pierre Lurton no less, meets us and we start a great walk around one of the best kept wineries we've seen. the history seeps and the views across to St Emilion taking in the Garonne valleyand Ciron river, make us all stop for that kodak moment. The day is perfect with the fog lifting and burning off just as we stand on the hill next to the mid 15 C cellars that house some of the world best and most expensive wines. Teh director is a personal friend of the hostess from the school, Marie, and they share a couple of jokes as we taste the new vintage in a setting that will have been used by kings presidents and the rich and famous for centuries. this life i can get used to! The secret is in the Terrior- the climate and the Botytis( a horrible looking but essential fungus) that changes the sugar in the berries. didnt catch the nest discussion- far to complex for afellow just enjoying the flavour of the sky and 'scape. The micro climate is the thing and there is much talk of global warming and the changes to the weather here. makes one realise that the conversations in Australia are not an isolated feeling. The group that i have had in class organise to go to Brasserie d'Ecole du Vin. It is the little wine bar using the left over plonk from the wine school and i celebrate a fine time with a st Emilion Grand Cru 1956- my mate the fruiterer would understand. The trip to Les Quarte des Routes is next on my mind and the early rise to catch the train, my gift bottle of tuscan wine ( dave bucks suggestion from a previous trip) the final morroccan tea and the farwells to Madame are all that is left. Au revior Bordeaux.

Kulture

SO you all thought I was a typical slob- well I have been to Carmen in the old Submarine base at the Garoyne. Not that I understood a thing. I did realise just how limited the Australian and the American perspective is. Darrin and myself kept pretty quite as there was significant educated discussion about opera and classical studies from the Europeans. It was quite an event. the venue is the old submarine hangers built by the germans to kill allied ships in the atlantic. massive structures designed to withstand quite an impact I assume; apparently very good acoustics. The Grand Theatré( another left over from a serious dynasty) is also open this month for the season so had to hang out in one of Frances most delightful theatres reconstructed from Napoleans time, art on the roof, 4 tiers high; about double the size of La Boité. The 50 piece orchestra did 'repetitions'- basic rehearsals but public so the animated conductor(kwamé ryan from canada) answered questions all afternoon. all free. great idea very informal and very well attended at both sessions. should adopt this in Brisbne_ or maybe they do already !! The practice had all the musicians casually dressed and after there was a gathering to meet them. all very pleasurable. Historically this place is going to be listed by UNESCO as is all of Europe - they just cant do a complete inclusion of all europe as there are tiny fragments that arnt historic!! If you go to the net the web site is comprehensive and Ive been to them all. As always the beauty is in the people and the passion. the enthusiasm for the wine is serious and my fruiterer,visited every morning, produced a bottle of 1956 Petruce for me as he says the 1957 (the year i was born ) was no good! I compained of course! It was just sitting- with dust attached -in his 1000 bottle collection(cave) he has in the back of the fruit shop!!! about 3500Euros! The fruit is ok as well!
The french have the best in all selections- the best chocolate in town, the best thé in town, the best cannelle in town etc etc. I think I am at school in the Best spot in town for it all. Cadiot - Badie is the chocolate; Salon de Parlement is the best thé and the best wine is the école de vin. All here in abundance. I think that Bordeaux has "L'armes d'anges"- the angel's touch in the town as well as in the wine. Thre is a large circus setting up in the town centre as I write this- Ill be there" tonight have they got it it all!

The class

Taking the group as a teacher must be exhausing.we are so diverse, with so many levels of language skill, it makes it difficult to communicate together. This week I have 3 germans; the american korean who speaks german, two swiss , three english, 3 spanish and me the Aussie- they have nicked named me "kangaroo". it seems that there is only one animal that really facinates them all. the classes often concerntrate on discussion about the differnt characteristics of each country depending on the subjects being taught that day ; for example, we may look at pets in a country, student habits and government funding, accomodation, tax systems and other really easy subjects to get into- especially if you have no idea of the verbes or words. today we had a role play selecting and being selected for a house- share for students, in Bordeaux. different and funny to say the least. the grammar is what motly stops us as the words are available in the repetoir of most of us. the teacher is Natalie (not as well as Florence though) and she can explain ideas very well- all in french, limited hand actions but using various adjectives till we all get the message. the class is for about 1.5 hours from 9.30 am then after 11.15 till 1.00. everyone then wanders downstairs to discuss who what and where lunch will be had. usually sit down, about 12 Euros and goes for 2 hrs unless you have a class in the afternoon - then you run for the room. It it usually doesnt start till about 1.15pm. Today we spent lunch for10 euros in a small and magnificent hall-way retaurant (seats50) decorated in scenes from Little Red Riding Hood- the story! It is a set menu - buffet with quite a large selection of salades and terrines(there isa lot of arguement over when a terrine is a Pate and vive versa). they also have quite a lot of cous cous salades and eggs feature as well; followed by a beef meal; then some fruit and a small demi (1/2 litre of red or white wine) - quite a huge lunch. Afternoon classes are discussions and can ramble along anywhere. the teacher(proffesseur) lets it go, but regulrly corrects grammar and pronunciation. bad habits come easily as Tuna- the turkish girl and the swiss - Michele - both speak well gramatically but pronounce badly. After the class and the frivolity have abated I go for a cup o f Tea- usually Morroccan - as I love the mint. The Salon de Thé are plentiful and do variety- not just old bushels! the serving is large and the discussion often vigourous as there is a lot of youth doing tea- I think it is trendy here! My hangout is a gay bar in the Place de Parlement. they chose the tea depending on your mood which they can tell just by looking at you (with hand on hip of course!). Sometimes I do a short film at the Utopia- a beautifully renovated old church /resturant and salade bar that does shorts forgien and art movies. the pork feotus salde was just a bit to much though! I have taken most of the different buses now from the city to Eysinne so am able to get lost and get un-lost quite easily. The nights are getting colder and, you wouldnt guess but the other night I had to kill mozzies b4 going to bed - cant escape the little buggers. One more day till its my turn for the friday afternoon party_ not sure where but it is some famous chateaux in the country - again!!!

The Third Week

I have to make them short and swift as this cyber cafe is a little unstable and I have bought a bucket load of time. The Exciting things. Australia won! sat in the very back row.was a little dissappointed in the tickets but cest la vie__ unti it rained_ every one except for the last 6rows is in the open. the game progressed slowly just like youd expect with julian controlling play from the 10 position for Australia. slow and very wet. george came on and the crowd went wild. havnt see the recognition from any other plyer like this. the fernch had two bands playing at either end, all the crowd got into the feel and there was significant clapping and cheering. here they all clap encouragment as the kicker is taking the kick so the noise is tremendous. they do teh mexican wave- six at a time - quite spectacular_ trumpets, bagpipes and lots of singing and synchronised clappingplus Horray! after the mexican trumpet call; spent the saturday in the Byron Bay restaurantat place de vitctoire with the AFL grand final and the american and the swiss who thought it was incredible. they also qame to the rugby and we sat together so I could explain the rules. Having taken the full day doing sport we decided to do the same again on Sunday. the bordeaux facilities for the rugby include the Quais de Chartron tent city - activities for kids huge screen bars etc etc right on the Garoyne inlet banks. Teh trams take everyone here and away after the band stops playing at around12 pm. quite fun as there are about 3000 people gathering here;
Dinner as usual was quite superb usual vin and fromage- and steak! thank goodness az Im keen to have some meat. back again,Just picking up the edit after a break!!! The party for the departing students is fun- we all went to the Archeron village on the coast and there ate oysters ane drank lots of very cheapaand nasty french vin Blanc; ech week there is a gathering on friday afternoon - no lecture- and the y go on an excursion to a famous ofr pcturesque spot. the cape Ferat experience was great except we lost all the all spansh, the japonais and half of the koreens. Oh and the Australian! After a significant period, the irish woman and myself found the rest of the school but then we lost the spanish again- the guide was quite drunk at the end of the excursion so we did a head count in fifteen languages and raced for Bordeaux as it was quite lat. in the traffic jam for friday afternoon thre was quite a situation with toilets require,etns and a suermarket discoverd 30 students in thier toilets with a massive tour bur double parked across the entrance. Friday night was sleep.